3D printer questions and advice wanted

[MAVERICK]

I am thinking about getting into the 3D printer game. To start off I know nothing about them. So I need some help.

I am looking for any advice of what to look for or what to stay away from

I will be using this for the rc hobby mainly for the scale trail trucks and crawlers. But my wife does a lot of crafting and would also be using it for her needs as well

NOT looking at any of the 4,000$ ones. Thinking more 500$ range

anyone that is playing around with one of these throw me some advice please and thanks

 

[TBuggy]

One of the best printers from what I have read and that I have been eye balling for some time is from Prusa. I actually don't have one myself but their newest one will be the one I get when I do pull the trigger.
The original that is at a great price, if you ask me;
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/upgrade...k3s-multi-material-2s-upgrade-kit-mmu2s.html#

And their newest version for a little bit more;
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/180-original-prusa-i3-mk3s-kit.html#

 

[Billl DeLong]

After doing a ton of research, I found that the Ender 3 Pro was by far the easiest to use and has the most support while providing the best quality print for the price, very happy with this purchase:
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Pri...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

 

[devnull]

Managing expectations and having some patience helps when it comes to 3D printing.

The lower end of the scale is where you'll find the bulk of the hobby printers, and in reality they really don't vary very much from one another. They're all basically doing the same thing with the same parts. Stepper motors driving belts on the axes, simple controllers using Marlin firmware or a variant of it, bowden extruders feeding a hot end that can print the filaments you tend to use when you begin. PLA (first and foremost), ASA, ABS, TPU, PETG and probably a few others I haven't thought of.

Some will be better printer than others. Some will have problems due to a lack of quality control in their acquisition of parts for their printers. Very few of these manufacturers are actually manufacturers. The vast majority of them buy all the parts and slap them together. The better manufacturers are the ones that are able to consistently acquire reasonably good quality parts and assemble them properly, then package everything in a way it isn't destroyed by the time it gets to you. Consistency is the key there.

Creality does a pretty good job at being consistent. I have a Creality CR-10 Mini, which reflects exactly what I mentioned above. I didn't have any problems with it. Everything worked exactly as it should. They are hardly the only player in this arena. Would I buy another Creality now? Probably not. My requirements for printing have far exceeded what that printer could do stock. Would I recommend someone new to printing buy one? Sure.

Your use case mentions printing parts for RC vehicle use. This sets the bar a little further up from the baseline filaments you'll be using at the beginning. PLA, while a very strong material, is also very brittle so it won't handle impacts very well. It also is on the low end of the scale when it comes to heat tolerance. If the vehicle will be exposed to sunlight for long periods of time PLA could deform and/or melt. There are other materials better suited to functionally durable parts. This is where the slippery slope begins. Some TPU filaments don't print well with bowden setups. You might need to go to a direct drive extruder setup to solve that problem. You might then want to print a filament that requires somewhat higher temps. While you perhaps won't need to change the heater in the hot block on the hot end, you will probably need to upgrade to an all-metal hot end. As I recall, there is a problem where there is a piece of bowden tube in the stock hot end that can melt when exposed to higher temps.

That's when you enter the world of upgrades. I've gone through waves of upgrades. The first few upgrade components I used now sit in boxes. Some of the planned upgrades ended up being superceded before I got them installed. I have a second Z axis stepper motor/lead screw that I haven't installed yet. I might not as I'm thinking ball screws for the driveline now.

To print ABS, due to shrinkage it can and does warp. To help alleviate this an enclosure should be used. For the types of parts you want to print, that might be a good material choice. It's not so easy for a beginner so you should probably stick to PLA first and then branch out from there.

That's just some basic commentary that's more or less a stream of consciousness thing.

And I agree with Bill. There is support for Creality printers available, but probably not from Creality themselves so much as Facebook (if that's something you use) or online forums. Do be aware, however, that not everything that will be suggested for you online will be of value. There are plenty of terrible suggestions from every backyard engineer that has a printer.

 

[Ifti]

One of the best printers from what I have read and that I have been eye balling for some time is from Prusa. I actually don't have one myself but their newest one will be the one I get when I do pull the trigger.
The original that is at a great price, if you ask me;
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/upgrade...k3s-multi-material-2s-upgrade-kit-mmu2s.html#

And their newest version for a little bit more;
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/180-original-prusa-i3-mk3s-kit.html#

I would definitely go for the Prusa if I were getting now now.
Ive had the Ender 3, and it is a great machine, but I found it needed a fair bit of tinkering to get consistent smooth prints. No auto calibration etc either. If you are happy to tinker and learn as you go then the Ender 3 is great.
If you just want to get going and print, then Prusa is the way to go. My friend has one and once built and setup he's had no issues whatsoever - just prints away!

 

[MAVERICK]

Managing expectations and having some patience helps when it comes to 3D printing.

The lower end of the scale is where you'll find the bulk of the hobby printers, and in reality they really don't vary very much from one another. They're all basically doing the same thing with the same parts. Stepper motors driving belts on the axes, simple controllers using Marlin firmware or a variant of it, bowden extruders feeding a hot end that can print the filaments you tend to use when you begin. PLA (first and foremost), ASA, ABS, TPU, PETG and probably a few others I haven't thought of.

Some will be better printer than others. Some will have problems due to a lack of quality control in their acquisition of parts for their printers. Very few of these manufacturers are actually manufacturers. The vast majority of them buy all the parts and slap them together. The better manufacturers are the ones that are able to consistently acquire reasonably good quality parts and assemble them properly, then package everything in a way it isn't destroyed by the time it gets to you. Consistency is the key there.

Creality does a pretty good job at being consistent. I have a Creality CR-10 Mini, which reflects exactly what I mentioned above. I didn't have any problems with it. Everything worked exactly as it should. They are hardly the only player in this arena. Would I buy another Creality now? Probably not. My requirements for printing have far exceeded what that printer could do stock. Would I recommend someone new to printing buy one? Sure.

Your use case mentions printing parts for RC vehicle use. This sets the bar a little further up from the baseline filaments you'll be using at the beginning. PLA, while a very strong material, is also very brittle so it won't handle impacts very well. It also is on the low end of the scale when it comes to heat tolerance. If the vehicle will be exposed to sunlight for long periods of time PLA could deform and/or melt. There are other materials better suited to functionally durable parts. This is where the slippery slope begins. Some TPU filaments don't print well with bowden setups. You might need to go to a direct drive extruder setup to solve that problem. You might then want to print a filament that requires somewhat higher temps. While you perhaps won't need to change the heater in the hot block on the hot end, you will probably need to upgrade to an all-metal hot end. As I recall, there is a problem where there is a piece of bowden tube in the stock hot end that can melt when exposed to higher temps.

That's when you enter the world of upgrades. I've gone through waves of upgrades. The first few upgrade components I used now sit in boxes. Some of the planned upgrades ended up being superceded before I got them installed. I have a second Z axis stepper motor/lead screw that I haven't installed yet. I might not as I'm thinking ball screws for the driveline now.

To print ABS, due to shrinkage it can and does warp. To help alleviate this an enclosure should be used. For the types of parts you want to print, that might be a good material choice. It's not so easy for a beginner so you should probably stick to PLA first and then branch out from there.

That's just some basic commentary that's more or less a stream of consciousness thing.

And I agree with Bill. There is support for Creality printers available, but probably not from Creality themselves so much as Facebook (if that's something you use) or online forums. Do be aware, however, that not everything that will be suggested for you online will be of value. There are plenty of terrible suggestions from every backyard engineer that has a printer.

Thanks for all the good input.

So for making scale parts for trail trucks like fire extinguisher, cooler, spare tire mount PLA would work fine. But for body mounts and bumper mounts stuff that will take an impact will need to be ABS

I know that some of the apps have pre loaded items that can be printed. But what about printing a custom pice? How do you write the code or put precise measurements for the item

 

[Ifti]

Thanks for all the good input.

So for making scale parts for trail trucks like fire extinguisher, cooler, spare tire mount PLA would work fine. But for body mounts and bumper mounts stuff that will take an impact will need to be ABS

I know that some of the apps have pre loaded items that can be printed. But what about printing a custom pice? How do you write the code or put precise measurements for the item

You need to use a 3D modelling app - something like Blender (I think its free?).
You can use that to create your own models, using your own dimensions.
You then import it into the slicer application used by your specific 3D printer to prepare it for printing - in essence the slicer simply reduces the 3D image into layers for the printer understand and print.

The most complicated part is getting used to your 3D modelling software - once you have that cracked you'll be printing all kinds of stuff!
There is a different level of satisfaction from creating something from your own imagination, and then having the physical item in your hand a while later!

To get started, and get your printer dialled in, you can always head across to a site like 'Thingiverse' and find tons of items to download and print.

 

[devnull]

Thanks for all the good input.

So for making scale parts for trail trucks like fire extinguisher, cooler, spare tire mount PLA would work fine. But for body mounts and bumper mounts stuff that will take an impact will need to be ABS

I know that some of the apps have pre loaded items that can be printed. But what about printing a custom pice? How do you write the code or put precise measurements for the item

Well, as Ifti pointed out, you'll need a design software to create a model of the part you want, then you will export that model to a file format named stl. It was created for stereolithography many years ago and has carried through to today as the primary format for processing part models in slicers for 3D printers.

Slicers are software that generates the code that the controller on 3D printers use to move the print head around, speeds, feed rates and temperature control. Typically 3D printer controllers use what is called 'G code'. That also is a technology that's been around for many years and is probably still the most common language used for CNC technologies - and after looking up that wiki page, it states that in the first line. When I started programmed horizontal boring mills almost 40 years ago, that's the language that was running on the controllers we had, and it goes back a few decades before that.

Here's a web site that has created a list of CAD/Modeling softwares you can use to create models for your part designs, then they also provide a list of slicers available. It's actually a pretty good list and I'm glad I found it when I was poking around. It looks like they covered all the various software I'm aware of, and I also see a few that I haven't tried and/or even knew existed before.

https://3dprinting.com/software/

I use FreeCAD, but it's a bit more challenging when it comes to complex parts than it should be due to its quirky nature. Some simple things you try to do force you to find a workaround for something that shouldn't be a problem. Generally speaking it's fine, but I know when I invest time in a part design, fighting the CAD software to accomplish something is counter productive. I'll migrate to another platform in time.

It will take time to develop the skills for design, (including learning the software) as well as setting up a slicer and then setting it up for your printer. None of this is plug 'n play. The whole process isn't far from what I was doing when I was designing tooling. It's just that now the technologies involved in that are far more available to the general public.

Ifti also provided a recommendation for part repositories such as Thingverse. I haven't used them myself for anything other than some simple parts used to print test pieces. I'm sure you can probably find some things you need there.

 

[MAVERICK]

Thanks for the explanation that cleared it up for me but also added some complexity. Like anything I still have some more to learn.

glad I have a smart wife she will come in handy for this new avenue of the hobby

 

[WoodiE]

The Ender 3 and Ender 5 (both in Pro) are some of the highest recommended 3D printers for starters. They don't cost an arm and a leg and are able to print some nice things.

 

[sebcbien]

My long expérience with 3D printers is that I should have directly buy the "overpriced" prusa MK3S...
It's worth every penny, yes, and I've had also the ender 3 and ender 6 ... all the prusa ecosystem is well thought and you gives money to the small company who made all major improvement in 3d printing... Not to the big chinese copycat companies who cheapens all components.
The reliability, the noise, the precision, the consistency is what makes me "just print" and endend losing my time in adjusting, upgrading, enhancing, replacing pieces and troubleshooting my Ender.
Just my 2 cents

 

[sebcbien]

Even the ultimaker that we have at work is not as good...

That said, I was used to find lot of pieces to print from thingiverse for Traxxas and Arrma.

I searched last week for mudguards for my mt410 and sct410 and found nothing.

Do you have a website with more pieces for TEKNO ?

If not, I will design one but without model it will be harder (thickness, wheel size etc)

Thanks !

 

[sebcbien]

Fusion 360 has a free "Maker" license.
This a very neat piece of software quite easy to use but from 0 experience, The learning curve is a bit steep but not that much if you follow YouTube tutos (and they are many available)

Thanks for all the good input.

So for making scale parts for trail trucks like fire extinguisher, cooler, spare tire mount PLA would work fine. But for body mounts and bumper mounts stuff that will take an impact will need to be ABS

I know that some of the apps have pre loaded items that can be printed. But what about printing a custom pice? How do you write the code or put precise measurements for the item