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3 BROKEN STEERING SERVOS - Anyone have issues with Steering Servos wearing out quickly?

ctidol50

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  1. EB48
  2. SCT410
Anyone have an issue with going through steering servos? The Cheaper ($45) 35Kg units have been working great for bashing and local "track" area - but first visit to REAL track I went through (3) of them. gears stripping and.... Have servo saver set per factory sheet... Any ideas?
 

Billl DeLong

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Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
  2. EB48
  3. ET48
  4. ET410
  5. MT410
  6. SCT410
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I don't race TEKNO anymore, but if you're running the 2.0, I found that it was harder on my servos due to the new geometry of the steering rack design and ackermann design.

I have recently switched over to SRT servos and have been very impressed with their quality, performance and durability:
https://dialedhobbies.com/srt-bh9032-1-8-hv-high-torque-aluminum-case-brushless-servo-detail

Note that this servo is a pinch slower which helps make it less likely to strip a gear ;)
 

PrimaRC

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Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
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Anyone have an issue with going through steering servos? The Cheaper ($45) 35Kg units have been working great for bashing and local "track" area - but first visit to REAL track I went through (3) of them. gears stripping and.... Have servo saver set per factory sheet... Any ideas?
I haven't had an issue on my Buggy yet, but I have stripped a servo on my ET48 2.0, I'm thinking it was more the servo than the truck though. I have a ProModeler servo in my Buggy and it has been good, but we went into Lockdown before I got a chance to really give it a hard time at the track.

I have loosened the servo saver off a lot on my Truggy and it still has plenty of steering, it is on my basher though so it's not as critical. In my race ET and EB I have them set up as per the manual, though it does seem very tight and I'm sure I could loosen them off without creating an issue.

Have you stripped the same brand of servo 3 times or are they different designs? I'm sure you've set your end points up in the radio also?
 

sebcbien

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Tekno RC's
  1. EB410
  2. MT410
  3. SCT410
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Same here, found the servo saver way too hard when building my MT410 and ET48 2.0. :unsure:
I also loosened it a lot and found no issue at all on the steering, even loosened, test with your hand to make it "save" and you will understand :LOL:
 
Last edited:

ctidol50

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  2. SCT410
I haven't had an issue on my Buggy yet, but I have stripped a servo on my ET48 2.0, I'm thinking it was more the servo than the truck though. I have a ProModeler servo in my Buggy and it has been good, but we went into Lockdown before I got a chance to really give it a hard time at the track.

I have loosened the servo saver off a lot on my Truggy and it still has plenty of steering, it is on my basher though so it's not as critical. In my race ET and EB I have them set up as per the manual, though it does seem very tight and I'm sure I could loosen them off without creating an issue.

Have you stripped the same brand of servo 3 times or are they different designs? I'm sure you've set your end points up in the radio also?
I must admit im not using hi-dollar/quality servos....yet. And yes I've set the EP. I've been trying some chinese/amazon 35kg units and run the EBC on the second setting ~ 7.2v and am running a pretty short TLR "22" steering horn as the Tekno unit (aluminum) didnt allow me to get the steering link arm set right. I'm switching to Savox 1256 and double checking my setup to see if that solves the issue.
 

ctidol50

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  2. SCT410
Thanks for the replies - I think its a combination of cheap servos, some setup adjustments, and my need to adjust my driving style on the track..... Thanks everyone.
 
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Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET410
Driving Style
Basher
I haven't had an issue on my Buggy yet, but I have stripped a servo on my ET48 2.0, I'm thinking it was more the servo than the truck though. I have a ProModeler servo in my Buggy and it has been good, but we went into Lockdown before I got a chance to really give it a hard time at the track.

I have loosened the servo saver off a lot on my Truggy and it still has plenty of steering, it is on my basher though so it's not as critical. In my race ET and EB I have them set up as per the manual, though it does seem very tight and I'm sure I could loosen them off without creating an issue.

Have you stripped the same brand of servo 3 times or are they different designs? I'm sure you've set your end points up in the radio also?
That is weird that OP has lost three servos in one day.

End point adjustment not being correct would be my first thoughts of diagnosing as well.
 
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Tekno RC's
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  2. ET410
Driving Style
Basher
I use "middle of the road" servos in all my RCs, and have had pretty good results with my selections. Perhaps quality of the steel gears on them "no-name" servos, sold everywhere on the interwebs, is just poo. Some of my older servos, that used to be one of the hot ticketed servos back in the day, even have a composite gear inside them. I only got my XP DS1015 servos, because everyone was selling them 50%~60% off regular price, and making room for newer models coming out. Going on 19 months now and my EB48 2.0's DS1015 servo is still going strong.

My point being, buy a known quality product.
 

MAVERICK

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I must admit im not using hi-dollar/quality servos....yet. And yes I've set the EP. I've been trying some chinese/amazon 35kg units and run the EBC on the second setting ~ 7.2v and am running a pretty short TLR "22" steering horn as the Tekno unit (aluminum) didnt allow me to get the steering link arm set right. I'm switching to Savox 1256 and double checking my setup to see if that solves the issue.
Just my opinion but if I have 1000$ Rc rig I am not going to put a cheep servo in it. The last thing I want is for it to crap out and run into a wall or tree at 50 mph

Most of mine are in the 90-120$ range not super high end

I have had good luck with reefs servo I have 3 of them with no issues for 3 years now

Look for servos with all metal gears and brands that offer rebuild kits and spar gears
 

VRC

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I did strip servos until I got bette quality. Now I run direct power HH…
 

Malatx

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Protek 170sbl was in my old arrma typhon and now in eb48 2.0. No issues at about 9months so far, and we have suffered some of the worst crashes at our track, 😂

It was at 6v in the arrma and at 8v in the eb48.
 

nub

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  3. SCT410
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The EcoPower WP120T is worth looking at. I have several from 2wd buggies, 4ws crawler, SCT and MT410. Good specs for 70 bones and I've yet to have a problem in the 2 or so years since I stumbled upon them.
 

MAVERICK

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The EcoPower WP120T is worth looking at. I have several from 2wd buggies, 4ws crawler, SCT and MT410. Good specs for 70 bones and I've yet to have a problem in the 2 or so years since I stumbled upon them.
That’s good to know I have been looking at them recently

Wanted something to have in my spare parts tool box that would work on all
Bashers/race buggy/crawlers 👍
 
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