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“C” Block screw wont go in far enough

Papa_smurf

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Edit: …apparently i still cant read. I posted this in ET48, not EB48! Not sure how to move it. Strike #2…


Contrary to me previous posted question…i don’t believe this is a dumb mistake on my part.

Im working on the rear end assembly and the screws that hold the C Block to the rear gear box are impossible to get in all the way. See my pic below. That is after some serious torquing to the point where i know ill strip the screw heads or break something if i go farther. I fear the one screw head may have stripped slightly already getting it in that far. It looks like neither screw is in far enough (one obviously worse than the other). I checked some build videos and they just breeze through this part so im not sure if i’ve received a “lucky” diff housing or what… any ideas?

64521078-9583-43C5-9CE3-76A5D7AE7DF4.jpeg
 
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EngenZerO

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Use some kit grease on the threads and back the screw in and out. Make sure you do the same for the screws when attaching the diff to the chassis.

Also get some fresh screws if you think one may be on the verge of stripping.
 

Papa_smurf

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I thanks for the tip. Wish I’d heard/read that one somewhere earlier. Just snapped my 2.5mm driver attempting to back them out. Now I need to order a new tool.

I’ll be surprised if the bolt doesn’t strip when I try again so that awesome.…assume I now have to order a new diff housing and bolts. Then disassemble everything…
 

EngenZerO

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Could notch the screw with a dermal and then back out the screw with a flat head see if that works before ordering a new housing.

Yeah found out about the tip on the FB group but, yeah, def use Kit grease on the threads with the diff cases. The new material is harder. I just back in a little till I feel resistance and then out a little and do that till it’s driven in all the way.
 

Papa_smurf

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Got some new MIP drivers along with some chapstick for lube and all is right in the world again. Thanks for all the help!
 

Byron

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Edit: …apparently i still cant read. I posted this in ET48, not EB48! Not sure how to move it. Strike #2…


Contrary to me previous posted question…i don’t believe this is a dumb mistake on my part.

Im working on the rear end assembly and the screws that hold the C Block to the rear gear box are impossible to get in all the way. See my pic below. That is after some serious torquing to the point where i know ill strip the screw heads or break something if i go farther. I fear the one screw head may have stripped slightly already getting it in that far. It looks like neither screw is in far enough (one obviously worse than the other). I checked some build videos and they just breeze through this part so im not sure if i’ve received a “lucky” diff housing or what… any ideas?

View attachment 7886
I had the same problem. I ended up having to purchase new parts, including the aluminum C block, because I could not even cut the screws off. It happened for both the front and rear ends. I also had to purchase the stainless screw set, so I could get replacements.

The screws are like they are welded in. Like the plastic formula is bad. I am waiting to complete my build before dealing with Tekno.

I believe they will stand behind their product. This did not happen on my other Tekno builds.
 

EngenZerO

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I had the same problem. I ended up having to purchase new parts, including the aluminum C block, because I could not even cut the screws off. It happened for both the front and rear ends. I also had to purchase the stainless screw set, so I could get replacements.

The screws are like they are welded in. Like the plastic formula is bad. I am waiting to complete my build before dealing with Tekno.

I believe they will stand behind their product. This did not happen on my other Tekno builds.

Not 100% but it could be the tougher plastic they used similar to that of the ET48 2.0 Truggy box before the revised version dropped.

@Matthew_Armeni?
 

Matthew_Armeni

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The material on all of the bulkheads was updated as well as all of the bearing hole tolerances to provide the best, most consistent gear mesh. As a result, the screw holes have become harder to thread. We recommend using chapstick or grease during installation. Also, unless you're driving in wet conditions I wouldn't use stainless hardware in high stress areas. Stainless is softer than the black oxide coated hardware and will be more likely to break, bend, or strip the head.
 

PrimaRC

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Tekno RC's
  1. EB48
  2. ET48
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If you have an electric driver with a clutch I find it works really well to use chapstick and work the screws in and then out slowly going in further each time, if you get the plastic to hot I think it binds. Just go slow till it gets tight then back it off and out a bit then go in again and repeat.

Make sure you use the chapstick on the tie rods also. I use chapstick on all my screw threads going into plastic, some aren't required, but it helps a lot.

Also using some silicon shock oil or grease on the shock orings will help a lot, install the adjustment collars before anything else helps too. This way you can use a tyre wrench to hold the shock body while screwing the collars on. When your finished putting the shocks tougher you can clean the excess oil off with naphtha.
 

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