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EB48.4 vs EB48.3

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Jerry-rigged

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Tekno RC's
  1. SCT410
Driving Style
Basher
Howdy gang -

How backwards compatible is the .4 version with the .3 version? I see lots of great deals on used .3 buggies, been thinking about jumping on the Tekno bandwagon. If I picked up a .3, will I be able to buy .4 parts for it?

My usage would be about 75% "Track bashing" with a bit of racing and park bashing. At least, that is how I use my current 1/8 buggy, an Arrma Typhon.

Thanks,
Jerry
 
pretty sure the .4 just requires a handful of parts that can be installed onto the .3
 
To different parts and the chassis are not the same:
TKR5006 and TKR8006
But I just bought an Eb-48.3 that was new and asked a French pilot from Tekno and he told me that
the major difference and progression was from the .2 to the .3
The .4 corrected few little things
 
When I was trying to decide on what to do, either buy the ET or buy the EB.4 and eventually convert to a truggy, I forget the specifics on how we ended up on the conversation, the guy at Tekn told me the difference between the EB.3 to the EB.4 will really only be noticeable when racing it because it’s just adjustment type of stuff for fine tuning. He said I wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between the two if only bashing it. Not sure if that helps at all but thought I would let you know what they said about the two models.
 
Thanks ya'll-

Yeah, I was pretty sure for my use, the .3 would not matter over the .4. I just want to make sure that if (when) I break it, most of the .4 will fit.
 
I think we can still find parts for 48 and 48.2 version
 
EB48.3 and .4 are significantly different. Control arms are shorter and the chassis is wider.
 
I recently switched from .3 to .4 and the performance is significantly better with the .4

The .4 rotates faster without giving up any grip, and it tends to drift easier feeling more balanced which increased my consistency from 95% to 98% on average.

Key differences are Ackermann geometry and whole new rear end design...

For a basher who isn't interested in performance, the .3 is great to get started with... even to run in Sportsman would be fine.... but if you want to be competitive and you start to see your consistency jump into the mid 90% range, then it would be time to seriously consider upgrading to the .4 which will help you jump up to the next level.
 
Right now a day at the track driving will help my consistency more than a new chassis... LOL But I hear what you are saying.
 
Here's the whole rundown from the Tekno website on the revisions.

EB48.4 New Features
  • New CNC 7075 Chassis with Improved Wear Characteristics
  • Revised Steering Geometry and Ackerman Plate
  • Bearing Supported Spindle/Carrier Design
  • Revised Wide Rear Pivot Suspension Geometry
  • Revised Ultra Efficient Drivetrain with New Universal Driveshafts
  • Revised Internal Gear Ratio for Improved Efficiency
  • CNC 4×1.9 Flat/Flat Delrin Pistons and CNC Delrin Guides
  • New CNC 7075 Aluminum Bleeder Shock Caps (emulsion, vented, non-vented)
  • New LF (low frequency) Shock Springs
  • New Fighter Jet Inspired Body Design
 
I run my .3 with overdrive gearing with various other upgrades and find it suits my needs very well! Parts are still very available and see no reason to switch yet but maybe someday. My .3 has;
  • the .4 steering geometry
  • universals all the way around
  • over drive gearing
  • LF springs
  • delrin shock components
  • aluminum emulsion shock caps.
 
I still see plenty of .3's at my track and they flat out rip. I feel like the .4 might be a slight improvement but it's splitting hairs based on feedback and results at my local track.
 
I run my .3 with overdrive gearing with various other upgrades and find it suits my needs very well! Parts are still very available and see no reason to switch yet but maybe someday. My .3 has;
  • the .4 steering geometry
  • universals all the way around
  • over drive gearing
  • LF springs
  • delrin shock components
  • aluminum emulsion shock caps.

Curious about what you're doing with the "over driving" Are you over driving the front diff like you would to a crawler to pull thru corners? Wondering what benefits you've found in doing so.
 
I think it has helped my driving on a hard pack with loose dirt type track. It seems to help pull through the corners a little easier for me.
I am using the NB48.4 front diff with the EB48.4 rear

An old running video of my buggy;

Here is a screen shot from Teknorc.com about overdrive;
Screen Shot 2018-04-27 at 2.39.56 PM.png
 
Awesome vid. That thing flies so smooth on some of those big hits. Good job with the vid on angles/views and such.
 
Tinyeyepete is his youtube name he hasn't posted much lately but he has a bunch of old running videos at the track.
 
Great video!
 
I think it has helped my driving on a hard pack with loose dirt type track. It seems to help pull through the corners a little easier for me.
I am using the NB48.4 front diff with the EB48.4 rear

An old running video of my buggy;

Here is a screen shot from Teknorc.com about overdrive;
View attachment 294
Does the transmission change from .3 to .4? for my area the overdrive would not work for me but I'm thinking of updating .4 transmission. Worth it?
 
the .4 diffs are geared different and they are supposed to be more efficient. I never drove a .4 so I couldn't say how different they are in comparison though.
 

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