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Tbuggy's ET410

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@Slevin Nope, no shims. Several guys on the FB group said the gears may just need to be broken in, and to run a few packs through it.
 
I got to this point and the diff does not spin as smoothly as I think it should. Almost like it’s binding up every few turns or so. Any suggestions?

Maybe I got lucky, but mine were pretty smooth from the start. I would just make sure that the outdrive is tight and not loose so there is no slop between it and the diff case/bearing.

Also as you have been advised after a few runs it should free up, it may just need to be broken in.
 
My other RC carnage from the other day. I thought I had just broken a wing mount and needed to clean out some bearings, but as it turned out I had actually broken both parts of my rear diff case and the mounts! No worries though since my eb410 parts box was full of everything I needed!
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Also, a little feed back on the Trinity aluminum rear hubs; make sure to install grub screws in all of the outer rear camber holes that are not being used. Especially if you run on a dusty track. I found that because the holes carry all the way through into the inside of the hub where the bearing are installed they will allow dirt and or water (if running on wet conditions) directly into the inside of the bearings rather quickly. This all lead to all four bearings to pretty much seize up on me way premature.

(I didn't have 6 grub screws of the right size at the time so I had to use a button head screw for now)
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So lesson learned and ready to get back out there!
 
Your ProTek RC servo holding up? I have one that I took out of my Yeti. Thought I might possibly reuse it in the ET410.

Actually yes, I have liked the 130t for a while, I have one in my SCT410.3 as well and it has held up in that rig for a full season without a problem so far.
 
So I decided to do an electronics swap. I moved my HW Xerun XR8 SCT esc into my ET so I can use my orion R10 esc one of my EB410s to be able to handle a lower turn motor (Currently running the tekni RS gen2 in the EB410).

The Orion esc was doing just fine with the 4pole motor I was running but after seeing some people running the bigger esc's I decided that was the route to go to save money, because the real motivator was to actually be able to run a lower turn motor on my buggy.

The HW esc came from my SCT410.3 (that my 12 year old runs mostly) and since I had a spare monster X ESC I decided he wouldn't know the difference if I swapped that out, he he.

After a bunch of brainstorming on wire layout this is what I came up with in the end. I did fabricate a RX and switch plate out of the esc mount plate that comes with the HW esc. Never new why they included it with the motor until now, lol!

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Painted up a new body for my ET. The protective film is still on the body in the picture. The paint is still curing. I will trim it all up tomorrow and post some more pics.
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2294
 
Went out yesterday to run my rigs and my ET here was victim of flying wheel nuts! It started out with the first 10 ft on the track and lost a wheel. Now I always check my wheel nuts before hitting the track, but I though maybe somehow I missed this one??? Then about 2 battery packs later I lost another wheel, this time the opposite wheel than the last (front wheels). A couple more batteries later I felt some handling issues and then started to check things out and a wheel nut came loose again! this time just enough to completely mangle the inside of the wheel! Now I have to get a new set of wheels, wah wah...o_O

Had a few extra nuts and cranked down the messed up wheel so I could keep having fun! Ended up bending both front hinge pins. All in all a good day at the track...LOL!
 
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One thing I was thinking that may be contributing to the bent hinge pins in the front is the position of the a-arms. I have everything built to box set up still but am contemplating moving the spacers to move the a-arms more forward. Every hinge pin that I have bent bends between the spacers and the front of the a-arm. This makes me thing that the extra amount of hinge pin is getting leveraged on more.

After a few runs with the a-arms moved forward I will see how things react and report back.
 
Awesome write up..!!???

Love the amount of detail you put into it, I've learnt a few tips from reading your build threads..
 
Awesome write up..!!???

Love the amount of detail you put into it, I've learnt a few tips from reading your build threads..

Thank you for the kid words and I am glad that they are being helpful to people.
 
Great paint job. What colors did you use on the body? looks like fluorescent green and metallic blue? Did you airbrush the body and how did you get the black paint specks?
 
Great paint job. What colors did you use on the body? looks like fluorescent green and metallic blue? Did you airbrush the body and how did you get the black paint specks?

Actually yes those where the colors. Plus the white. All from tamiya spray cans.

The black is not spray paint but is an acrylic paint that I just splatter the body with using a paint brush. It is a messy process and usually leaves more paint on the surrounding areas than the body. LOL
 
Actually yes those where the colors. Plus the white. All from tamiya spray cans.

The black is not spray paint but is an acrylic paint that I just splatter the body with using a paint brush. It is a messy process and usually leaves more paint on the surrounding areas than the body. LOL
Cool. so you just splatter the clear body with the black paint and then spray paint over it I assume.
 
Awesome. Gonna try this on the next buggy body I paint. You use black Tamiya brush paint in the tiny bottles? Wonder would look cool if you did this with a truck body. Maybe with a brown dirt color. Have you tried this with a truck body?
 

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